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Brocéliande & Paimpont, Brittany, France Guide | |
| If you like the legends of King Arthur and Merlin, you'll want to visit Brocéliande. | ||
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Brittany is known for its Celtic heritage and also for its mysterious history. The central part of Brittany, much of which is in the Morbihan department, includes the standing stones of Carnac, the Quiberon Peninsula, the charming town of Josselin, the small village of Vannes, and more. Much of the Morbihan is forested, and the Paimpont Forest, the heart of Brocéliande, is the center of the Merlin legends. According to the story, Merlin came to the Forest of Brocéliande to live in seclusion. But instead, he met and fell in love with the fairy Viviane. She used her powers to keep him in a magic circle, and there he stayed. The main town in Brocéliande is Paimpont, which takes its role as the center of Merlin lore quite seriously, with restaurants and shops named for Merlin, Viviane, and others. The main street of the town is lined with a variety of shops and restaurants, and the Tourist Information Office is at the far end. The Office can provide you with a map of the region and information on several walking trails. These range from the Merlin Walk, which takes you to Merlin's tomb and the Fountain of Youth; to the circuit of the Valley of No Return; to a poetic walk around the small lake in the center of Paimpont. We decided to visit Merlin's tomb. The walk from the parking area to the tomb was simple enough, as was the tomb. We wanted to continue the walk, eventually found the Fountain of Youth (I'm not sure it works...) and ended up near a small pond. However, once we got away from the tomb and the fountain, the signeage for the walk was very limited, and some of the paths hard to follow. We eventually headed back the way we had come in, which was fine. Perhaps the signs will be improved, but be prepared for little guidance. Maybe we were supposed to use magic...
As we were driving from Brest to Paimpont, we made two delightful stops. First we returned to Josselin, which we had visited several years ago and loved. We walked through the center of this historic town, admired the château, and had a delightful lunch in the square by the beautiful church. Founded in the 11th century, Josselin has a long and well-preserved history, and fascinating architecture. More... On our way we also took a turn off the road when we saw a sign for the Château de Trécesson. We knew nothing about it, but after driving a few minutes on a narrow dirt road, there it was, beautifully reflected in the pond that surrounds it. It is open to visitors only in July and August, so we just admired it from the outside. A fun little side trip!
There are few places to stay in Paimpont, but there are others in the nearby towns and countryside. You can take a look here. We stayed in a small B&B in the countryside, where the sounds of geese, ducks, and frogs greeted us. As for Merlin? He didn't put in an appearance.
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Above, The Fountain of Youth?
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