Many people are familiar with the standing stones of Carnac, in Brittany, where there are some 3,000 megalithic monuments dating from the fifth to the third millenium BCE.

Less well known, but equally ancient and important, is the Great Cairn of Barnenez, located just 14 kilometers/9 miles north of Morlaix, near Plouezoc'h on the Kernéléhen Peninsula (map). It is one of the oldest man-made structures in the world. Former Minister of Culture André Malraux described it as a "Megalithic Parthenon."

The Cairn of Barnenez; the primary cairn is on the right, the secondary on the left.

The cairn consists of eleven "passage tombs" in two cairns; the primary cairn, built first, has five passage tombs, while the secondary cairn has six additional tombs. Although the secondary cairn is almost twice the size of the primary cairn, it sits on a steep slope leading down toward the Bay of Morlaix. The builders had to take the slope into account while building it.

The cairn was built between 4500 and 3900 BCE, with the primary cairn built first and the secondary somewhat later. When you look at the main facade you can see the entrances to the tombs. In the center is the most monumental entrance, with the largest dolmen, or horizontal stone.

Entrance to the central passage tomb, the one with the largest dolmen, presumably the most important.

The passage tombs are not accessible for safety reasons, but you can pass through one to the other side. The passages are made of low stone walls and often topped with vertical slabs. The builders are also known for the "corbelled domes" they built, creating stable roofs with only flat stones.

Although the cairn was mapped in 1807, it was under private ownership unti the 19502 and was used as a quarry for paving stones. After some of the chambers were uncovered, the quarrying activity was stopped. Some engraved symbols were found in some of the chambers.

When you visit, first take a look at the exhibits in the Reception Building. These illustrated how the Barnenez Cairn is structured, and it also provides information on other Neolithic monuments. From there you will walk up a few stairs and across a field to reach the Cairn. As noted, you cannot go in any of the tombs, but you can wander around the entire structure and go through a passage from one side to the other. There are stunning views of the Bay of Morlaix from the hilltop where the Cairn is located. The site is off the beaten path, and you'll drive down some small roads to get there. It can be visited in about an hour.

The Cairn is part of the Centre des monuments nationaux.

Grand Cairn of Barnenez
29252 Plouezoc'h France

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