Saint-Pol-de-Léon is a small town (population about 6,000) in the Finistère region of Brittany. Located about 5 kilometers south of Roscoff and 20 kilometers northwest of Morlaix (map), it is an easy day trip from either place.

This lovely historic town has been occupied since prehistoric times, as attested to by nearby dolmens (stone monuments). According to legend, Saint Pol Aurélien, a bishop and one of the "founder saints" of Brittany, arrived in the 6th century, guided by the vision of an angel who told him to cross the seas. At the Île de Batz he took down a dragon that had been terrorizing the inhabitants, casting him into the sea. After this great feat, the king named him the first Bishop of Léon. St Pol died in 594.

In the 13th century construction began on the Cathédrale Pol Aurélien, on top of ruins of a Roman chapel. Between then and the 18th century, church architecture dominated the town and many impressive buildings arose, including Chapelle Notre-Dame du Kreisker (see below). But with the advent of the French Revolution, St-Pol-de-Léon suffered cultural and economic decline.

Over time, with the coming of the railroad and the development of agriculture in the region, St-Pol revived and became the largest source of artichokes in Brittany and a major seaport for exporting vegetables of all sorts.

Cathédrale Pol Aurélien

The Cathédrale Pol Aurélien is a large monument that dominates the main square of the town. Although the exterior, with its twin towers, is striking, the interior is perhaps more impressive. The beautiful rose window (15th century) portrays the holy family, surrounded by angels and saints. The oak choir stalls include some detailed carvings. And a number of tombs include fanciful statues.

Tomb of Mgr F de Visdelou, 1668. Looks like he's bored with his book!

The cathedral is also known for its collection of "heads." Traditionally all Breton cemeteries had an ossuary, for the bones of the deceased. In this case, the heads were preserved in special boxes, shaped like chapels or coffins. A collection of 34 of these heads-in-boxes grace one of the walls of the cathedral. Some date to the 16th century, others are more recent.

The wall of boxes of heads in the Cathédrale St-Pol Aurélien.

One of the more unusual statues is of Sainte Apolline, the patron saint of dentists, who died in 249. She refused to renounce her faith in Jesus, and her persecutors pulled out all her teeth. Rather than giving in to their demands, she walked into the fire they had prepared for her, becoming a martyr rather than abadoning her faith.

Chapelle Notre-Dame du Kreisker

The cathedral is not the only religious monument in St-Pol-de-Léon. Just a few short blocks away is the Chapelle Notre-Dame du Kreisker. This chapel is best known for its tower, the tallest one in all of Brittany at 78 meters (256 feet). In the summer months, it is possible to climb up the tower (179 steps) and get a wonderful panoramic view of the town and the seacoast.

Chapelle Notre-Dame du Kreisker, still in the middle of town!

Kreisker translates to "downtown," which the chapel was and is.

The foundation of the chapel dates to the 6th century, though the chapel was largely built in the 14th and 15th centuries. The spire is octagonal in shape and has many openings that allow for the passage of air and reduce wind resistance.

Like the cathedral, the chapel also has an ornate interior. The Altar of the Visitation, with its combination of detailed wood carving and a central painting, is impressive, as are the stained glass windows (some of which are relatively modern).

Of cultural interest is the presentation of the seven founding saints of Brittany, or Les Sept Saints du Tro Breizh. The founding saints are St-Pol Aurélien, St Tugdual, St Brieuc, St Malo, St Samson, St Patern, and St Corentin. You may recognize that several of these are associated with Breton towns.

Note: As you spend time in Brittany, you may notice that there are a lot of saints you've never heard of. We were told there are 36,000 Breton saints, many of them named before the Catholic Church started naming saints. There is even a Valley of the Saints, where Philippe Abjean has undertaken a massive project to create 1000 statues of Breton saints, carved from Breton granite. It's about an hour southeast of St-Pol-de-Léon, or 40 minutes from Morlaix.

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