Driving along the peaceful looking Chemin des Dames, in the Aisne region of France (map) one sees beautiful rolling fields, farms, and pastoral scenes.

Today it is hard to imagine that this serene area was at the center of many bloody battles in World War I. The memorials and monuments that appear every few kilometers/miles, however, speak to its history.

The most famous site is the Caverne du Dragon, toward the eastern end of the Chemin des Dames. A small museum building and parking lot lead you down to the caves, which can be visited by guided tour. The visit takes about an hour.

The caves are cool (12C/54F), so you'll want to bring a light sweater or jacket.

Stones were dug from the quarries for centuries, creating a large and winding cave. The Germans took the cave in January 1915, digging out tunnels to link it to other quarries in the area. They created an underground barracks, with electricity, first aid stations, sleeping areas, cooking areas, and even a cemetery. It was simply too dangerous to go above ground to bury men who died there. They called it Drachenhöhle, or the Dragon's Cave, and the name stuck.

The French retook the cave in June 1917; for a while troops from both sides lived there, separated by walls.

Visiting today, you can see inscriptions, directional signs, and the names and dates of some of the men who stayed here.

As you walk through the cave, try to imagine men living there for months on end. No bathing, little light, smoke, and constant fear of the battles above. Exhibits show some of the "trench art," creations made of shell casings and other materials; canteens and other tools. A large hall, very simply lit, honors the soldiers who served there.

Simple but moving memorial to the soliders
who lived—and some who died—here.

The museum (above ground) includes maps that show the major sites along the Chemin des Dames, as well as photographs of some of the memorials and monuments in the area.

A visit to the Caverne du Dragon is moving and educational, and helps paint a picture of how significant an impact World War I had on France, and on this area in particular.

---

Caverne/Chemin des Dames World War I Reims Champagne Region Amiens Northern France Albert