Paul Cézanne lived and worked in Aix-en-Provence for most of his life. He was inspired by the mountains around him, most particularly Mont Sainte-Victoire, about 20 kilometers/13 miles east of Aix (map). Visible for miles around, you can actually circle the whole mountain, enjoying small villages and interesting terrain as you drive on narrow, twisty mountain roads. It makes a great day trip.

Driving from Aix-en-Provence, you have the option of detouring to the Bibémus Quarries. Rocks from these quarries were used for many of the monuments in Aix-en-Provence. Often painted by Cézanne, the rocks are believed by some to have inspired Cubism.

The small village of Vauvenargues makes a nice stopping place for lunch or a snack. With a population of less than a thousand people (but at least two restaurants), this village is best known for its château, which was owned by and is the burial place of Pablo Picasso. Picasso greatly admired Cézanne, and bought this château, at the foot of "Cézanne's mountain" in 1958. Today the château is privately owned and cannot be visited, but you can get lovely views of it and Mont Sainte-Victoire as you stroll through the village. A sign makes it clear in three languages that there are no visits and says, Le musée est à Paris (The museum is in Paris.)

Château of Vauvenargues, where Picasso is buried,
with Mont Sainte-Victoire in the background.

 

From some perspectives you will also notice a large cross on the western tip of the mountain. Known as the Croix de Provence, this monument was built in the late 1800s with contributions from many surrounding parishes. Standing about 17 meters (56 feet) tall, it is visible for miles around. The Croix is a popular hiking destination, taking three to four hours round trip.

As you leave Vauvenargues to circle Mont Sainte-Victoire, you will enter the wild Gorges de l'Infernet. Steep, wooded, and accessed only by a very narrow, twisty road, the Gorges offer some lovely views and some trailheads, but are largely deserted. Watch out, however, for the occasional speeding driver who seems intent on getting down as fast as possible! We drove part way up and then decided to turn back and continue on the route around the mountain.

To go around the mountain you'll pass through the villages of Pourrières and Puyloubier. The occasional café offers a chance to take a break and have a cold drink.

All along the route you'll get changing views of the mountain and the beautiful landscape, and you may also see bikers. Closer to Aix, the area near the village of Beaurecueil provides some great views of the mountain.

Remember that back in Aix-en-Provence, you can visit the studio and family home of Paul Cézanne. A walking tour in the city takes you past sites that were important to Cézanne. There is also a large statue of Cézanne near the Tourist Information Office.

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