Place de la Comédie

The broad Place de la Comédie has cafés and restaurants ranged along its west side, ranging from McDonald's to the Grand Café Riche. Most popular for drinks, these café-restaurants also offer light meals, with a few more substantial offerings.

The exception is La Brasserie du Théâtre, 22 boulevard Victor Hugo (tel +33 (0) 4 67 58 88 80), near the southeast corner of the Opéra building, boasts fine dining and smooth service indoors and on an elevated terrace.

Esplanade Charles de Gaulle

Walk north from the Office de Tourisme past the large circular fountain and along the Allée Paul Boulet. Several restaurants along this street have tables set out beneath the lofty sycamore trees. This is another good place for a drink, a snack and/or a light meal with much less trafficthan on the adjoining Place de la Comédie.

Place Jean-Jaurès

A few minutes' walk northwest from the Opéra along rue de la Loge, brings you to Place Jean-Jaurès, marked by a large statue of the French patriot. The selection of restaurants here, shaded by old trees, is better than on the Place de la Comédie, with a greater variety of dishes.

Les Halles Castellane

Farther northwest along rue de la Loge, you come to the Place des Martyrs de la Résistance, marked by the grand Préfecture de l'Hérault building. Just south of the Place is the modern Les Halles Castellane market filled with gourmet treats (one never comes to terms with the variety and number of French cheeses). Along rue Saint-Guilhem on the northwest side of the market are several restaurants with outdoor tables. Most popular for drinks and snacks, most offer a few more substantial dishes.

rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau

This narrow, seemingly obscure street leading northwest off the Place de la Canourge, near the Cathédrale, is a good place to look for fine dining. Two of the restaurants here are recommended by Michelin, and others also offer finer food than Montpellier's more casual eateries.

Le Reflet d'Obione, 29 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (tel: +33 (0) 4 99 61 09 17), for example, boasts one Michelin star. Meals are generally by set-price menu (meaning several courses chosen by the chef, not à la carte), with carefully-chosen wines to accompany each dish, if you wish.

Église Saint-Roch

Several light-meal and drinks establishments place tables in the quiet Square Dominique Bagouet at the corner of rue Voltaire and rue Vallat, beside the ancient Église Saint-Roch—a pleasant place for refreshments in one of the oldest quartiers of the city.

On the River

La Réserve Rimbaud, 820 avenue Saint-Maur (tel: +33 (0) 4 67 72 52 53) on the bank of the River Lez, is one of several restaurants in Montpellier boasting a Michelin star. Besides the simple but appealing dining rooms, you can dine at tables on the long terrace overlooking the shaded riverbank, watching the birds wing to and from neighboring Parc Rimbaud.

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