I had walked by the Bourse de Commerce (map) many times during visits to Paris, assuming it was a business site and had nothing to offer me. That was true for much of its life, but in 2021, after extensive renovations, it reopened as the home of the Pinault Collection of Contemporary Art. This new museum on the Paris scene expands the contemporary art offerings of the city. And perhaps of equal importance (at least to me), it allows visitors to visit this beautiful building.

François Pinault is a French businessman/billionaire who has invested significantly in contemporary art. In 2016 the City of Paris invited him to create a museum in the Bourse de Commerce.

The collection includes a wide range of art works, from the wax sculptures/candles of Urs Fischer, which are lit every morning by staff; to large photography exhibits; to a variety of paintings and sculpture by contemporary artists.

was mich anscheut (looking at me), by Miriam Cahn.

Taking advantage of the rotunda under the beautiful dome, the Fischer exhibition allows one to wander through and see the various pieces. A bit of a trompe l'oeil comes from the pigeons that have alighted on the railing high above. Looking ever so realistic, they are 52 taxidermized pigeons, by Maurizio Cattelan.

The building itself has a long and colorful history. It served as the residence of Queen Catherine de Medici in the 16th century; it was the Corn Exchange in the 18th century, and then the Bourse de Commerce, or Commodities Exchange in the 19th century. The 20th century saw it as the site of the Chamber of Commerce and Industry.

The rotunda is topped by a beautiful iron and glass dome, which dates from 1813. Beneath it are 1400 square meters (over 15,000 square feet) of a beautiful mural designed to portray worldwide trade.

Partial view of the lovely dome and circular mural, with a bit of the Urs Fischer wax sculpture in the corner.

The hallway around the rotunda features works of art in graceful wooden cabinets, as well as a beautiful patterned marble floor. The upper floor consists of numerous galleries featuring works by featured artists.

If you go to the top floor you'll find the restaurant, called the Halle aux Grains, reflecting the building's history. You will also experience the double helix staircase, which dates from the 18th century, when the building was the Corn Exchange. Grains were stored on two levels, and the two ramps allowed the porters who carried the large bags of grain to go up and down without having to pass each other. (A similar double helix staircase may be found at the Château de Chambord in the Loire Valley.)

Contemporary art encompasses a huge variety of styles and artists. As a new museum, 2021 saw it attracting significant attention. Like most museums, admission is for a specific date and time. It is recommended to buy tickets on line prior to your visit. When I decided to go at the last minute, the website showed no available tickets. But I went to the site and found I could purchase a ticket for that same day at the automatic ticket window, just across from the Bourse building. I had to wait about an hour until my scheduled time, which gave me a chance to pop over to the nearby Samaritaine, also reopened in 2021, and see what was happening there.

The Bourse de Commerce/Pinault Collection is open every day but Tuesday (and May 1).

Bourse de Commerce/Pinault Collection
2 rue de Viarmes
75001 Paris

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