As you might imagine from Carcassonne's touristic popularity, the fortress-town of La Cité has a good selection of dining places, serving everything from crêpes and sandwiches to cassoulet and fois gras.

The Restaurant Adélaïde, 5 Rue Adélaïde de Toulouse (tel 04 68 47 66 61) in La Cité comes highly recommended.

You should also look at the few, but good, small restaurants on rue Trivalle at the foot of the hill down from La Cité on the walk to the Vieux Pont, near several chambres d'hôtes.

Among these, we enjoyed a good dinner at La Tête de L'art, 37 Rue Trivalle (tel 04 68 47 36 36), a small place specializing in pork dishes and...vegetarian! This is a surprise, and a valuable find in a region that prides itself on its super-rich duck-, goose- and pork-based cuisine.

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