Rue du Montparnasse Crêperies, Paris | ||
Want a little taste of Brittany in Paris? Go to the Rue du Montparnasse. | ||
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There are crêperies all across Paris, ranging from full restaurants to stands on the street. The Rue du Montparnasse, not far from the Gare Montparnasse, is a center of authentic Breton crêperies. There must be at least a dozen crêperies in one block on this street, between the Boulevard du Montparnasse and Boulevard Edgar Quinet (14th arrondissement, on the border of the 6th). It's no coincidence that trains from Brittany run to the Gare Montparnasse, making this an attractive location for Bretons and those who want to eat Breton food. Savory crêpes, also called galettes, are normally made from buckwheat (sarrasin). Note to those who can't eat gluten—pure buckwheat is gluten free. Be sure to ask if the crêpes contain flour (farine or blé). Fillings might include ham, cheese, eggs, mushrooms, and other vegetables. If you buy one from a street vendor, eat carefully. They tend to be full of stuff and quite drippy! Sweet crêpes (crêpes sucrées) are made from wheat flour. There is a range of fillings to choose from: chocolate, Nutella (hazelnut-chocolate spread), chestnut, and various fruit spreads. One of my favorites is a simple lemon crêpe, with a filling of sugar and fresh squeezed lemon juice. Traditionally crêpes are served with Breton cider, which is slightly alcoholic and fizzy. In some restaurants the cider is served in traditional small bowls. The crêperies on the Rue du Montparnasse tend to be named for towns in Brittany. You might choose to visit the St-Malo, named for the walled port city; or the Josselin, a town known for its chateau. Quiberon evokes the sea, as does the more generically named Les Cormorans. Not in the mood for crêpes? Head back up to the Blvd St-Germain or the St-Michel area for more restaurant choices. You'll also find Chez Bébert, a great place for couscous, near the Gare Montparnasse.
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